Stefanos Tsitsipas’ face lights up when he turns the corner. “I didn’t expect this,” he says of the restaurant's leafy outdoor decor. “It’s like a Greek neighborhood.”
That is, in fact, exactly what it is—because we’re sitting down in Astoria, known for more than half a century as New York City’s Little Greece. Within seconds of being handed a menu, he’s clear about what he wants.
“Mussels!” he says emphatically.