Call it the “Fifth Slam,” call it “Tennis Paradise”—hell, call it by its actual name: the BNP Paribas Open. It’s time for two glorious weeks of tennis in a jaw-droppingly gorgeous desertscape framed by a picturesque mountain background. You’ll be bathed in sunny days, chilly nights (seriously: bring a jacket) and drenched in pricey cocktails and the greatest tennis talent the world has to offer: It’s time for Indian Wells.
Indian Wells keeps breaking attendance records—it blew by half a million last year—and it’s easy to understand why. Since the first leg of what’s now known as the “Sunshine Double” started back in the 1970s, the tournament has grown and evolved as much as the valley in which it sits. Today, it’s an event that is truly for everyone—easy access to fantastic tennis for people who want to nerd out point-by-point, and a Coachella-like atmosphere for people who like to party first, pick up a racquet second.
Restaurants
It’s the best restaurant in the area and it’s not even close. La Copine is Nikki Hill and Claire Wadsworth’s love letter to new California cuisine and the desert, not necessarily in that order. Their food is rustic, seasonal and undeniably delicious. A current winter menu features a white bean and escarole soup, Asian-inspired noodles with five spice and orange sauce, and potato-and-sunchoke latkes. On my last visit there, I loved the shrimp and grits in an aromatic saffron broth, and was more than happy to crunch away at their Spanish crispy rice with king oyster mushrooms.
The hours aren’t exactly expansive, so take care in planning your trip. They’re only open Thursday-Sunday from 11 a.m.-4 p.m. If you want to try to nab a reservation beforehand, you can try texting them.
Man, what a fun place to get dinner. And man, what a tough table to get. You might try walking in without a reservation and get lucky, but do your best to book ahead. Once you’re in, you’re golden. This is Palm Springs at its very best: elegant, fun and loud. Framed photos of topless models and faux lines of coke (all tastefully done, of course) in the bathroom. If there’s a better spot to pull up and grab a shrimp cocktail and martini in the area, I haven’t found it.
If you’re out by Desert Hot Springs, north of Palm Springs, don’t sleep on Delicias Mexican Food. Angie Denicia and Armando Olvera brought Mexico City to this little corner of the desert with a bright, colorful restaurant and an expensive menu: think huaraches, pambazos, molcajetes and plates of cochinita pibil. On a visit here during my last trip to Indian Wells, I enjoyed a plate of chilaquiles that were the right balance of crunchy and soggy. A strong cocktail might have also made its way into the order (don’t ask).
Yucca Valley isn’t exactly on the way to Indian Wells but if you find yourself up there, consider checking out The Copper Room, located right on the edge of a local airstrip. This Rat Pack-era hangout has its origins in the 1950s when a war veteran snapped up a plot of land to build a small private airport and dining room for himself. The menu is what you might expect—steaks and martinis, along with a surprising number of Asian-inspired dishes.
Tennis
There aren’t a ton of easily accessible public tennis courts in Palm Springs; Ruth Hardy Park north of downtown might be your best bet. The 22-acre park has 8 courts and is open until 10 p.m.
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Fritz Burns Park in La Quinta is a 12-acre park that’s one of the better/more convenient places close to the Indian Wells Tennis Garden to grab a public court. Play a quick set, and then it’s just a ten minute drive to the actual tournament.
Tennis lessons at La Quinta Resort and Club
This isn’t free, but the La Quinta Resort and Club advertises itself as a place the pros play—and you can, too! There are private lessons, semi-private lessons and live ball clinics available, starting at $40 per hour.
Sights
Is a trip out to the desert complete without learning about how date palms reproduce? (Did you know there are male and female trees?) Shields Date Garden, now more than 100 years old, is a place you can learn far more about the life of the date than you ever thought you wanted to know. They’ll also treat you to 23 “handcrafted statues that depict the life of Christ;” do with that what you will. While you’re there, enjoy one of their famous date shakes with chewy bits of the sugary fruit.
Joshua Tree Certified Farmer’s Market
If you’re going to explore the Joshua Tree area (you’ve come this far — why wouldn’t you?), make a stop at the certified farmer’s market. It takes place every Saturday morning from 8 a.m. until 1 p.m. and is a stone’s throw from the Joshua Tree Visitor’s Center. Support your local farmers and artisans!
This isn’t exactly in the area but it’s tough to leave off the map. Only 65 miles from the Tennis Garden, the Salton Sea and Salvation Mountain can make a fun half-day trip for those with a desire to embrace their inner Mad Maxes. Bombed-out beaches and dead fish litter the trail to Leonard Knight’s iconic piece of environmental sculpture, which is covered in 500,000 gallons of paint.
Lodging
I’m old enough to remember when this place was a secret—Joshua Tree’s Hicksville Trailer Palace was like a fun, underground hipster secret. You’d book one of their themed trailers with names like The Fifi and The Pee Wee (I’ve stayed in one called The Pioneer) and they’d send you the exact address a few days before your stay, like it was some kind of illegal rave.
Anyway, it’s a compound with a pool, various activities, and colorful, themed trailers. It’s a fun place to soak up some rays and feel like you’re in a John Waters movie.
I stayed here last time I went to the tournament, and really enjoyed it. Like most good desert lodging, it feels kitschy, is creatively decorated, and feels out of the way. And the El Morocco has a major attraction for visitors to Desert Hot Springs—natural mineral water pools complimentary for guests staying at the hotel.
